Poetry in stone; Chennakeshava temple Belur and Hoysaleshwara temple Halebidu

Temple tour Karnataka part two: Chennakeshava temple Belur and Hoysaleshwara temple Halebidu

In the field of Art history and ancient Indian architecture, the Hoysala temples of Karnataka, India; Chennakeshava temple of Belur and Hoysaleshwara temple at Halebidu are regarded among the masterpieces of South Asian Art. These temples, with their exceptionally intricate sculptural artistry, are considered the finest examples of Hoysala architecture.

The Hoysala era (1026 CE – 1343 CE) was marked by glorious achievements in art, architecture, and culture, and its contribution in the field of architecture is considered the greatest accomplishment of that age. 

As the Hoysala dynasty gained power achieving immense success and growth, they built hundreds of temples across Karnataka thus making a political statement. Being distinguished patrons of the Arts, architecture, culture, and literature, the Hoysalas established themselves not only as a force to reckon with but also inclusive rulers by supporting Shaivite and Vaishnavite sects of Hinduism and also formally recognizing Jainism; a religion based on principles of non-violence and self-control for the attainment of spiritual liberation. The sacred ensemble of these religions became important means in the development of spiritual tenets through interpretations in various art forms like; temple architecture, sculpture, poetry, music, classical dance, and Kannada literature.

The ornately decorated shrines of the Chennakeshava temple of Belur and Hoysaleshwara temple of Halebidu; proposed as UNESCO world heritage site, were built after military conquests of Vishnuvardhan (1108 CE – 1152 CE) against the neighboring Chola Empire (c. 300 BCE – 1279 CE) in 1116 CE. And that turned out to be the first evolutionary step in the history of Hoysala dynasty.  Subsequently, as the empire reached its prime, the capital was shifted from Belur to Dwarsamudra (Halebidu) and a massive temple was built with the very clear intention of surpassing the Western Chalukya empire by transcending architecture to a completely new level.

The Chennakeshava temple of Belur and Hoysaleshwara temple at Halebidu portrays intricately carved figure sculptures on soapstone/a soft chlorite-schist stone quarried nearby that was especially soft when first quarried and hardened on contact with air/rain (the stone renders fine detailing and clarity), ideally suited for iconographic portrayal. In temple architecture, the intricately carved sculptures were integral to the composition and integrity of the structure and not just for decorative purposes. The architecture of the Hoysala temples is a combination of styles from north India (the Nagara style) and south India (the Dravidian style).

The Hoysala-style temples were constructed on platforms, with a star-shaped plan. A Navaranga served as a place for people to gather and participate in religious/cultural/social programs. Visual elements such as curving bell-shaped Chajja and lathe stone pillars with circular carved rings were distinct stylistic elements of Hoysala architecture.

Chennakesava Temple, Belur: 

(Chenna means beautiful and Keshava is one of the many names of Lord Krishna)

Chenna Keshava, an ekakuta (ek-meaning one and kuta meaning shrine), temple required 103 years to build and involved over three generations for completion. in this star-shaped temple dedicated to Lord Vishnu reside several Hindu temples and minor shrines in the complex. The architecture, sculptures, friezes, and inscriptions of this temple are marvelous! Unfortunately, one can't see the temple's shikhara since it has been ruined. The garbha griha is abode to Lord Krishna. The Chennakehsva temple is built on a general pattern of Hoysala architecture; with an east–west orientation set on a jagati.

The exterior and interior walls of the temple display intricately carved stone sculptures, with religious and cultural iconography depicting gods and goddesses, wars and triumphs, dance, music, hunting games, cavalcades, the beautiful dresses, jewelry, and daily social life of the time, and narrate scenes from the life of Vishnu and his reincarnations and from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and the Bhagavatam. Some of the sculptures also include representations of Shiva. The temple remains an important pilgrimage site for Vaishnavites to date. 

Hoysaleshvara and Shantaleshvara temples, Halebidu 

"Halebidu" in Kannada means, ruined city.

Halebidu, known as Dwarsamudra in ancient times was the capital for Hoysala rule for almost three centuries. Much ambitious and grander than Belur, the city served as the capital for the Hoysala empire for nearly three centuries. However, it was attacked and ransacked repeatedly by the invading armies of the sultanates from North India who finally succeed in plundering the city in 1310. The main temple at the center, various other smaller temples, shrines, and palace buildings were all destroyed in the process. Fortunately, despite all the destruction, some temples and structures of unparalleled beauty still remain intact.

Hoysaleshvara and Shantaleshvara the dvikuta (temple with two shrines) Shaiva temples, have two garbha grihas (sanctum sanctorum) and are connected by a mandapa (porch) forming a large open hall. One shrine is dedicated to King Vishnuvardhan and the other to his Queen Shantala, hence known as Shantaleshvara. Built in 1121 CE, this temple was constructed under the patronage of wealthy local merchants and aristocrats. 

The four entrances to the twin temple have miniature vimanas flanking on either side. Two more shrines; one for Nandi and the other for Surya are also constructed on the same jagati. The exquisite friezes on temple walls articulate stories from the Ramayana, Mahabharata, and Bhagwata Purana. The bands of finely carved friezes and reliefs preserve some of the finest achievements of Hoysala craftsmen and are brilliant examples of Art of sculpture, symbolism, Hindu mythology, Art, spiritual aspirations, and creativity. The Hoysaleshwara temple is well-known for 240 wall sculptures that run all along the outer wall and are artistically much sophisticated than any other Hoysala style temple.

Belur and Halebidu, draw many people including devotees, scholars, and tourists in equal measure from the world over. Once a crowning glory of the Hoysala empire still tells stories of grandeur from centuries ago. Albeit there are clear signs of ravage done by time and lack of proper standard of conservation. I wish there are stricter rules for visitors who seem to have a very callous attitude towards heritage and seem blissfully unaware of the harm they cause to these priceless pieces of history.

As much as one tries, it is impossible to comprehend the sheer abundance of beauty of architectural wonder of Belur and Halebidu in words. Whether one is a tourist, devotee, scholar, raseeka (aesthete), or even an atheist, one can't leave these temples without being in complete awe and a deep sense of reverence for the sheer genius of creativity in its splendor!  

Temple tour Karnataka : Bhoga Nandeeshwara

About a month back, I went on a study tour visiting temples of Karnataka with my class mates. I will be writing series of two articles about the temple tour.  

Part one: Bhog Nandeeshwara 

In Nandi village, at the foothills of Nandi hill of Karnataka, Indian sacred history and temple architecture encode coalition of various empires, histories and synthesis among different social groups and cultural systems. At Bhoga Nandeeshwara temple, one finds assimilation of different histories beautifully entwined, each bringing fragments of architectural style that proclaim their character yet resonate with the other styles in perfect harmony. 

According to the inscriptions, the temple was built in 9th century AD by the native Kannada Nolamba dynasty and many additions were made over centuries under respective ruling dynasties like Ganga, Chola, Rashtrakuta, Hoysala and Vijayanagara. Patrons from these dynasties contributed great deal adding value to the original architectural style without violating its aesthetics which was reflection of not only gesture of mutual respect but also social cultural milieu of the times.  Bhoga Nandeeshwara temple is believed to be first most ornate Dravidian temple in entire Karnataka, that played pivotal role in socio-cultural activities in the village and surrounding areas. 

The temple has a vast open area and as one enters the huge courtyard, one instantly gets engulfed in silence!  The chirping of birds, the giant rain trees that seem to have witnessed eternity, the robust summer blooms and their divine aroma calm all the neurosis and one gets the feel of ancient times dripping with soothing serenity. 

Architectural, archaeological and sculptural wonders are distinct characteristics of Bhoga Nandeeshwara temple. The intricacy of ornate carvings on countless statues depicting different deities, the geometrical patterns on the walls, the minute details on the carvings, design of the temple, inscriptions in ancient languages are sight to behold! 

The main enclosure of the temple has three shrines dedicated to Lord Shiva; each representing different stages: Arunachaleswara(childhood), Bhoga Nandeeshwara(youth) and Ardhanareewara; also known as Uma Maheshwara (after marriage), along with several other shrines on the rear side of the temple. The large mantapa in front of the main shrines have brilliant art work with each pillar showcasing beautifully carved images of gods, animals, puranic characters, sages and scenes depicted from Hindu mythology.

The Uma-Maheshwara temple, known for its intricate carvings made in soap stone (as opposed to the granite used in rest of the temple) was built by the Hoysalas between the 12th and the 13th century and has Uma and Maheshwaram in the sanctum.  This shrine is particularly sought after by the newlyweds to seek divine blessings.

The highlight of the temple is the Vasantha mantapa built in front of Ardhanareeswraa shrine. The temple has four intricately carved pillars, each depicting divine couple, richly ornate artistic roof and intricately designed and carved images of Shiva-Parvathi, Vishnu-Mahalakshmi, Brahma-Saraswathi, Surya and his consort on different corners of the mantapa. 

Shrines of Bhoga Nandeeswaraand and Arunachaleswara have large mahamantapas followed by the sanctum housing Shivalingas. The large Nandi situated opposite Bhoga Nandeeswara temple is beautifully carved with a small mantapa. 

The temple also has a big pond surrounded on all four sides by a walkway and a running mantapa. Legend has it that the pond was created by Nandi, plunging his horn into ground to draw out water from the divine Ganga. The Shringi Teertha is believed to be the source of the South Pinakini (South Pennar) river.

The Bhoga Nandeeshwara temple is believed to be a "rough draft", a drawing board for the chief architect of Hoyasala architecture style temples before building Belur and Halebidu and other structures.

"A concerted effort to preserve our heritage is a vital link to our cultural, educational, aesthetic, inspirational and economic legacies- all of the things that quite literally make us who we are. " - Steve Berry