Perched on a small hillock on the
bank of river Betwa about 30 kms from Bhopal city of Madhya Pradesh, stands
an incomplete yet majestic Shiva temple; Bhojeshwara Mahadeva.
Surrounded by acres of lush green fields, this unique edifice is a testimony to
the era gone by and accords peek into cultural significance, techniques
of temple architecture, heritage, construction style and practice from
11th century A.D. The Bhojpur Shiva temple is attributed to the legendary King
Bhoj Deva of Parmara Dynasty who was not only a great scholar but also patron
of arts, renowned author and an avid learner. He reigned the province and the
surrounding region from 1010 A.D. to 1055 A.D.
 |
| On the rocky platform near the entrance of the Bhojpur Mahadev temple |
At the very first glimpse of the structure of
Bhojpur temple, one feels awestruck! The 106 feet long, 17 feet wide and 17
feet high platform on which the temple is raised, takes one's breath away with
its towering size! I was pleasantly surprised by the Braille information
kiosk at the entrance of the temple for visually challenged people. (It surely
did win some brownie points!)
 |
| View from the slope of serpentine entrance to the temple |
As one walks in from the serpentine entrance
towards the temple, the resemblance to the Greek style of temple design
immediately comes to mind. There are three levels on which the temple is
built; the wide, huge steps leading to a higher level, an open place
of worship outside the temple and the main temple. Interestingly
unlike the typical Hindu temples where the
proportion of sanctum sanctorum is invariably small compared to the space
around and at point of complete harmony with over all structure as
embodiment of a microcosm of the Universe, at Bhojeshwara temple, the huge Shivalinga contains majority of the Garbhgriha, leaving barely much space around.
 |
| Entrance of the Bhojeshwara temple |
The original ceiling of the Garbhgriha of the temple was
broken and has been covered with fiber glass sheet in shape of inverted lotus
flower just like the original design. The roof is supported by four
enormous pillars and twelve piers. The pillars portray intricately carved
sculptures of Uma-Maheshwar, Lakshmi-Narayana, Brahma-Savitri, and Sita and
Rama. The door-jambs are adorned with figures of river goddesses Ganga
and Yamuna on either sides and Kuber.
A finely polished Shivalinga (the abstract personification of the deity Shiva), 2.35 meters high
with a circumference of nearly 7 meters enshrines the square sanctum.
Around the linga there are carved columns and above it ornately carved sculpted
ceiling. The entire temple is said to be carved out from locally
available solid sandstone, a reflection of un-parallel artistry of
the time! One can't help wondering how the artisans who built the temple
must have raised huge stones of that size and scale.
 |
The sanctum sanctorum
|
 |
| Sculptures of River Goddessed Ganga, Yamuna and Kuber |
The fascinating aspect of the Bhojeshwara temple is the that the Shivlinga along with the beautiful Yoni Patta (the biggest I have ever seen) rises to the height of almost 20 feet, making it amongst the tallest Shivalingas in the world! The original architectural designs carved in stone show that the temple complex was aimed on much larger scale and engraved on stone before the construction. In the compound of the temple, one finds engraved stencils on the rocks that explain detailed plans of architectural design for entire temple complex.
 |
| Engraving of the temple construction and design plan |
My heart skipped a beat when I spotted many beautifully carved sculptures; some half-carved statues, unfinished materials and decorative designs with the masons' marks strewn all around, completely neglected in the area of temple complex.
 |
| Engraving on the rocks of temple plans |
There is no clarity on why this temple was left incomplete. However, there are some theories that suggest different versions. One theory says the temple was supposed to be constructed in one night and since the herculean task could not be finished, it remained the way it was. Another school of thought says Bhoja Deva had to rush to Gujarat as the Somanath temple was attacked by Mohammad Gazni and his support was needed. He diverted all the resources thus Bhojeshwar temple remained abandoned.
 |
| Sculptures strewn all around, neglected in the temple complex |
 |
| Small temple outside sanctum for people to perform pujas |
One may not find the Bhojeshwar Temple in list of popular tourist trails but for lovers of history and archeology, this temple provides perfect material to study examples of medieval, Indian temple architecture. It is designated as "Monument of National Importance" by the ASI (Archeological Survey of India).
 |
| Intricately carved culptures lying in the temple complex |
 |
| Temple plans etched on rocks |
 |
| Damaged sculpture of Goddess Parvati |
