Meeting "Vasudevas", the wandering minstrels

Being a photographer and writer, I love exploring stories beneath the obvious, it is always a great challenge to tread the path of knowing people and capturing their stories without intruding their personal space. Sometimes, the stories unfold strand by strand and at times I get just a glimpse of their life in few moments. But it is always such a rewarding experience that its difficult for me to let go any opportunity to strike conversations even with complete strangers. Sometimes it means being disowned by family and friends who are with me at that time but they love me far too much to tolerate some of my "bizarre" streaks!  

Folk art of storytelling in India is very rich heritage that defines our culture and identity. Sadly, we have lost touch with this art form in today's fast age of internet, animation, cinema and mass media that are predominant part of our life. Recently, I discovered an ancient, mesmerizing form of spiritual/devotional/moral storytelling. 

Last week, I was at handicrafts exhibition in the city; marveling interesting menagerie of products/handicrafts, enamoured by the simplicity and innocence of the people from rural areas, when I heard some enchanting music.  

"Govind Rama ho, Gopal Rama Ji-Ji,
Keshwa Rama ho, Madhava rama Ji-Ji"

(Names of lord Krishna sung with utmost reverence)  

Pandharinath Ghatge and Krushnakumar Vaikar, the Vasudevas from Pune

Two singers with mesmerizing vibrant attire; wearing conical shaped crowns decorated with peacock feathers, a lute inserted into their long uparans were singing abhang (devotional song), playing chiplya, zanza and taal. Fortunately, they were willing to speak and I learnt an interesting facet of folk art of India, a cultural tradition that is part of "Bhakti marg" (path of devotion). 

I learnt that they were "Vasudevas", (a community that worships Lord Krishna hence the name "Vasudeva") members of a tribe dedicated to Bhakti marg (Bhakti cultivators), the wandering minstrel from Maharashtra. The concept of the wandering minstrel is a common thread across the country and folk art of this form has unique style in each state. 

Krushnakumar Vaikar, performing at the exhibition

Traditionally, the Vasudevas herald the dawn by wandering through the streets, singing, playing cymbals and occasionally whirling. They start their performance with the first ray of Sun; singing, dancing and waking up the world from its slumber with their melodious, spiritual abhangas, loaded with profound spiritual and philosophical connotations. There is fascinating symphony in the tinkle of their anklets, musical instruments and their songs. Their pheri starts when the moonlight makes way for Sun and ends around noon and this is their livelihood and they depend entirely on alms. 

Pandharinath Ghadge,  bit surprised by my curiosity 

According to Mr.Krushnakumar Vaikar, one of the "Vasudevas" I met at the exhibition, in olden times, their tribe also worked as spies, apart from their contribution in keeping the spiritual songs, couplets and verses alive through centuries, educating the people on street, imparting social awareness.

For someone like me, used to thrive in urban chaos, its difficult to imagine luxury of waking up to such melodious spiritual songs ! I was told, this ancient tradition is on brink of extinction. Will the "Vasudevas" be able to continue being educators, entertainers and cultural ambassadors for long? Only time would tell. For now, I am completely mesmerized by their personae and hope and pray some day, I wake up to their melodious rendition of abhanga, here, very much in this city of Mumbai.